FEEDING:
We recommend stainless steel food and water bowls because they are most easily sanitized; glazed crockery and plastic also have been implicated in toxicity, etc. Many of us like the "non-slip" ones with the rubber ring at the bottom, which are also less likely to be tipped; these are widely available. To contain water slop, go to the nearest "Container Store" and buy a plastic "boot mat" for $3.99; it's big enough for 2 big bowls, and has a rim to catch runoff from "2-gallon beards". Outdoors, plastic is probably better, because the water in stainless bowls and buckets heats up rapidly.

In any event, we strongly recommend portion-controlled, scheduled feeding. This method offers many advantages, including facilitating the establishment of a regular "potty" schedule and housebreaking, if needed. The foremost advantages, though, are the health benefits. The veterinary data are extremely compelling in their demonstration that "free-fed" animals tend to be overweight, suffer more health problems, and live shorter lives. Although it is common for your new family member to demonstrate a loss of appetite for a few days after the move, we recommend that you allow a limited time (5 minutes) for him/her to eat what is offered, and that you remove any leftovers until the next feeding time. He/she will not starve himself. In the unlikely event that your ADT still refuses to eat a palatable, quality food after 2-3 days, then give us a call, and/or consult your veterinarian. Try to resist the temptation to add lots of tasty, rich table scraps (except cooked vegetables, such as carrots, green beans, broccoli, squash, potatoes); these will convert your dog to a finicky eater and may cause serious health problems, such as pancreatitis (from fatty foods) or blood problems (from onions). To stimulate a lagging appetite, you can safely add a little fresh-frozen Biljac (available at the retail chains and larger grocery stores, in the frozen food section), which is a highly palatable, complete and balanced food few dogs can resist.
And, as everyone knows, chocolate is very dangerous for dogs, especially the darker, baking varieties. Cooked chicken and pork chop bones are also very dangerous.

DIET:
There are a number of quality foods available commercially. And you will be hard-pressed to find two ADT people (or any two dog people) who agree on the same feeding practices. Some Airedales seem to thrive on Lamb & Rice formulas, and others do not. (Read the label to be sure it is only Lamb & Rice, as many are not.). Excellent brands (not necessarily L&R) include: Biljac (available as kibble and fresh-frozen, which is great for finicky eaters, stressed animals, etc); Nutro Natural Choice Lamb&Rice; Sensible Choice; Innova; Annamaet Extra; ProPlan Chicken and Rice; Eukanuba Adult Maintenance; California Natural; Flint River; Innovative Veterinary Diets; Natural Balance; Pinnacle; Solid Gold; Wysong. In addition to palatability, conditioning, skin and coat, etc, you may want to consider the protein sources. The jury is still "out" but it is the grains (esp soy and corn and wheat) that have been implicated most in canine food allergy. If you choose to avoid these with a L&R product, read the label carefully, to be sure it really is just L&R. And be sure to check the dates on the bag when you buy; often the retail chains do not rotate stock well, and you will waste your money if you buy stale food, esp with the "naturally preserved" brands, since vit E is a lousy preservative.
For more detailed info, contact Good Dog Magazine (800-968-1738 or gooddogmag@aol.com ) and order their 1999 Dog Food Book. It contains reviews of 60+ products, tips on how to read labels, articles on micronutrients and other supplements, articles debunking many dogfood myths, etc.

SUPPLEMENTS:
You may find that your ADT does great on a high-quality food. And we do not advocate a lot of "hocus-pocus" and unproved medicinal herbs, or the like. But, bear in mind that the content of most commercial foods is designed to meet a "minimum" standard, and some dogs may require more of a particular nutrient. Many people find that ADT's indeed have high requirements to maintain their double coat, esp if they are being hand-stripped. And they can be prone to the "itchy-flakies". These coat and skin problems are especially true of some of the Rescues, many of whom have endured periods of stress, undernutrition, malnutrition, parasites, and the like, before coming into our program. This is most easily fixed, not so much by shampoos and topical products, but from the "inside out", with any number of nutritional supplements. The single most important supplement is Essential Fatty Acids (EFA's aka Omegas). These nutrients are included in most dry dog foods, at least in small amounts, but they deteriorate rapidly in even the most expensive dogfoods, once the bag is opened, and the contents are exposed to air and light. TMALSS, the two BEST sources for Omegas are fish oil and fresh flax seed oil . Flax oil (available refrigerated at a natural food store), at a dose of 1 tsp - 1 tbl daily provides an optimal ratio of omega3 and omega6 fatty acids. There are a zillion commercial products, including many based on fish oil , which are also good, but they tend to be more expensive, because they are formulated in fancy capsules and the like. And products based on any of the vegetable oils (olive, safflower, "vegetable" oil, etc) other than flax oil, are far less helpful, because of an unfavorable Omega3 to Omega6 ratio.
        Other beneficial supplements include: brewer's yeast and garlic tabs (the B vitamins help prevent shedding and itching); it may also help to repel fleas; it is dirt cheap; and it has no adverse side effects. Another excellent product is granular Norwegian kelp , available from many of the better catalogs and etailers; this contains many micronutrients that are helpful for maintaining skin and coat, thyroid function, appetite, and overall well-being; many otherwise finicky eaters love the taste; one of the cheapest sources is Omaha Vaccine Company ( http://www.omahavaccine.com or 1-800-367-4444; item #06885; $12.35 for 2.2 lb). And finally, there is canned pumpkin. No, not pie filling! Just plain canned pumpkin. Originally this was touted as a mainstay for a weight loss diet by a vet who trains performance dogs (to read more about it, read Peak Performance, by Christine Zink, DVM, PhD). But a tbl or more daily is an excellent source of fiber, and of Vitamin A, which is great for skin and coat. And the dogs love it! (But guard your Thanksgiving desserts and your Jack-o-Lantern's carefully, once you have a pumpkin eater in the house!)

These dietary supplements are inexpensive, readily available, and "whole food" products. There are a number of highly touted commercial supplements, which contain many of these same ingredients (Hokamix, Sea Meal, Missing Link), as well as a host of other ingredients. We all know someone who swears by one or the other of these for their ADT. These products do tend to be expensive, but they may be worth a try. In any event, be patient, as the response to these dietary additions may take 6-8 weeks, but it will happen!

GROOMING and BATHING:
Airedales do require a bit more "upkeep" than some other breeds. But, with regular maintenance, they shed very little and are not plagued by offensive skin odors, acne, or other problems. As a rule, the less frequent the ADT is bathed, the better. Bathing, esp with human products, tends to strip the skin of beneficial oils, softens the coat and leaves behind itchy soap and other residues. Once every 2-3 months should be more than enough for the "whole dog", though circumstances (e.g. digging a hole in the backyard mud!) may necessitate a more frequent washing of the leg furnishings, belly or beard <BG>. There are a number of excellent products on the market, esp in the catalogs that cater to show folks and groomers (see below). The Australian products with Tea Tree Oil from Mela are an excellent example. Remember, though, though that the ADT is supposed to have a "hard" coat; ideally, conditioner should be used ONLY on leg furnishings, and NOT on the black "jacket" or other areas.

For grooming, most ADT pet owners choose to have their ADT clipped, rather than the labor-intensive hand-stripping process used for show dogs. This needn't be done more than every 2-3 months, depending on climate, etc. At longer intervals, though, the coat can become matted, trap foreign bodies and fungus, become smelly and shed, etc. It is difficult to find even a professional groomer who will clip an ADT to look like a proper ADT, rather than some cross between a poodle and a schnauzer; the best way to find someone near you is to ask someone with an ADT, preferably a member of your local ADT club. There is also an excellent video for pet owners who want to groom (clip) their own ADT. It was produced by a showbreeder in Canada, named Joanne Helm, and you can email her for details on how to order; she can be reached at:   Helmj@cadvision.com . Often, the local breed club will sponsor grooming clinics and seminars for both "show" people and "pet" people, and these are a superb opportunity to learn in a hands-on environment.

Between these grooming sessions, though, there is some required "preventive maintenance" to keep the stunning look of the breed. It also provides some quality time to bond with and relax with your ADT, and a chance to check for lumps, bumps, ticks, and other problems. Frequent (daily is great!) brushing with a bristle brush and a slicker brush (for furnishings and face) will help to remove dead hair and undercoat, dirt and grime, and will prevent mats; it also helps to distribute the skin's oils. A "detangler" or "untangler" comb with rotating teeth is also nice to have, as it is less likely to pull and break hairs. Another great tool is a "hound glove" or "hound mitt" made of sisal (there are others with pins and with rubber, but they are not necessary). These are widely available and EVERY ADT seems to love being massaged with one of these. Again, it helps to remove dirt, dander and undercoat, but it also puts a lovely polish on the coat and provides a nice stimulating skin massage. To reduce shedding, it is helpful to regularly "rake" out undercoat, the soft (usually gray) hairs beneath the harder, darker topcoat. A flea comb can be useful for this, but probably one of the best tools is a fine, red-handled "McClellan" stripping knife. No, it's not a knife, and you're not going to cut anything with it. Think of it as a fancy comb which is just the right design for raking out this loose and dead undercoat. By so doing, you help to reduce shedding, and to maintain the hard texture and deep color of the top coat. These are widely available in the better catalogs, e.g. Omaha Vaccine.

Nails. The bane of the dog owner's existence. Long nails damage floors, inhibit traction and can cause permanent foot deformities. Yet, we all have horror stories we are too embarrassed to share with others about trimming nails. And we could rhapsodize for pages and pages about tricks to get it done. TMALSS, many dogs, including ADT's, much prefer -- OK, let's say "better tolerate" -- grinding, instead of clipping. Oster and Dremel both make electric and battery powered nail groomers, which are now widely available; or you can use a regular Dremel from your tool box with a sanding bit. This method offers a number of advantages: 1) it is less painful than the squeezing of the clipper, 2) it is easier to be more precise and avoid the painful and bloody trauma of cutting into the "quick", and 3) it creates nice, smooth, polished edges, instead of jagged fragments. It is also easier to groom more often, taking a little at a time, which causes the quick to recede and minimizes future bloodshed. The trick is to make it a "positive" experience with lots of praise and treats for good behavior, coupled with a sense of purpose -- if they think they have you psyched out, they win! If you do choose to clip, there is only 1 good clipper out there, and it is a "pliers-type" large dog clipper with an orange handle from Millers-Forge; beware the cheap look-alike imitations! Be sure to have some kwik stop or a styptic pencil handy.

Dental hygiene is also important, even for dogs with ready access to chew toys, bones and the like. Dental disease not only causes local infections and bad breath, but can cause serious damage to vital organs, such as the heart, liver and kidneys. Toothbrushing with a soft toothbrush and a CANINE toothpaste twice weekly is sufficient for most dogs, esp those fed only hard kibble. There are a number of products available, but one of the best is CET enzymatic toothpaste, which is available from your veterinarian; it contains 2 different enzymes, rather than the single enzyme in Petrodex and other brands, but it is a bit more expensive. In any event, avoid human toothpaste, as it contains ingredients that cause upset stomachs in dogs. Most vets will tell you that they can tell (just by looking at a dog's teeth) which dogs receive regular dental care at home. And, if it saves the expense and trouble of a professional cleaning, it is time well spent, in our opinion. Surprisingly, most dogs actually seem to enjoy it! (Check with your vet for more detailed advice, though.)

FIRST AID:
We all hope it never happens that you and your ADT experience an emergency. But it is worth a moment's forethought, just in case. There are some obvious things you've probably already done, such as posting the name, address and phone number of your vet and the closest after-hours vet on your refrigerator. Another useful number to have handy is that of the ASPCA's National Animal Poison Control Center (1-800-548-2423, or 1-900-680-1000). There is an excellent, inexpensive book, titled "Pet First Aid", by Bobbie Mammato, DVM, published jointly by the American Red Cross and the Humane Society of the United States. It is available for $10 from your local Red Cross chapter, or for a few dollars more from book etailers, such as Dogwise.com . It contains clear, step-by-step instructions for handling all sorts of emergencies, large and small, as well as a great list of items to include in a pet first aid kit, etc. Possibly the best $10 you'll spend!


Many of us have found some sort of veterinary pet insurance to be a cost-effective and valuable investment. There are 3 or 4 major companies (VPI being the oldest and largest), whose plans differ somewhat. They do not restrict your choice of veterinarian in any way. We have enclosed a recent article from "Your Dog" that outlines a side-by-side comparison of 3 of the major carriers.

MICROCHIPPING:
We strongly encourage you to have your ADT microchipped, if he/she hasn't been already. This is a simple procedure performed by your veterinarian, followed by registration with one of two nationwide databases, for a nominal one-time fee (the information can be updated at no charge at any time). There are two basic brands of chip currently available, one from Avid (Pettrac, which maintains its own database) and one from Schering-Plough (the Home Again chip; which uses the AKC Companion Animal Retrieval database). The chips are more or less equivalent, and are about the size of a grain of rice, implanted beneath the skin between the shoulder blades; no surgery is required. The word "on the street" is that the Home Again chip has less tendency to migrate or malfunction, but either is better than none. We strongly encourage you to keep a regular, buckle collar (no choke collars!) with ID tags on your pet at all times (and the chips come with their own collar tag with your dog's unique number and the 800 number for the database). But collars can be and are lost, and the microchip provides an almost certain trip home to you, if your dog is taken to any shelter or almost any veterinarian and "scanned". Ask your vet for details.
The URL for the Home Again chip is: www.homeagainid.com/
The URL for the Avid Pettrac chip is: www.avidmicrochip.com

On the subject of lost dogs, many of our Rescues have a history of escape. A bored, intelligent ADT, left to his/her own devices, may well open even a latched fence gate, and decide to explore the neighborhood, with disastrous consequences. Even worse is the possibility of poisoning, theft, or other unthinkable act. Consequently, we strongly urge (to the point of requiring!) you to secure all the gates on your securely fenced yard with padlocks. This is really the only way to keep your ADT safe from harm. We beg your indulgence on this seemingly "strict" requirement, but we all know a horror story or two about dogs in otherwise "secure" yards coming to great harm.

Also, as "terriers" we all know that ADT's can dig. If you plan to leave your ADT unattended in the yard for any length of time (which, as you know, we discourage), you may need to lay paver stones, cinderblock, or a strip of concrete along the fence line. This will serve the added purpose of preventing your ADT from wearing a muddy trench in the ground along the fence line. And please be sure to provide year-round shelter/shade, as well as a continuous supply of fresh water (This can be problematic, since bowls and buckets can tip; there are a few untippable products specifically designed for outdoor water, which hook to your hose, and refill automatically. Check the catalogs.).


RETAIL/ETAIL SOURCES:
There are thousands of brick-and-mortar and cyber places to buy everything for your ADT. In our experience, the larger retail chains, Petco and Petsmart, as well as their etail counterparts, Petopia and Pets.com, do not necessarily offer the best quality, selection, or prices on "serious dog stuff". They tend to lure you in with good prices on dog food, and gouge on other items. (OTOH, they do have occasional online sales on dogfood, crates, and other big items, so it is worth checking them out occasionally.) Most "show" people and many of us plain pet people find much better shopping at any of a number of "serious" online and catalog places. No single source has everything or the best price on every item (though many will meet their competitors' prices, if you ask!). Below is a partial listing, in no particular order, of some of the better places with excellent merchandise, great prices, superb customer service (and some, like KV Vet, do not charge shipping on most items for orders over $40):

Care-a-lot Pet Supply 1-800-343-7680, www.carealotpets.com
        (these are ADT people who donate to ADT rescue; lots of grooming stuff)
Omaha Vaccine Company 1-800-367-4444, www.omahavaccine.com
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies 1-800-526-0388, www.jbpets.com
KV Vet Supply 1-800-423-8211, www.kvvet.com
New England Serum Company 1-800-637-3786, www.PetEdge.com
Drs. Foster & Smith 1-800-826-7206, www.DrsFosterSmith.com
J&J Dog Supplies 1-800-642-2050, www.jandjdog.com

In our experience Cherrybrook Pet Supplies has TERRIBLE customer service, so we do not recommend doing business with them.

For books, videos, training equipment, etc., there is no better single place than Dogwise.com (1-800-776-2665); zillions and zillions of books on dogs. They carry thousands more dog titles than Amazon.com or anyone else. See below for a list of recommended titles.

RECOMMENDED READING:
You could read a book a night for a lifetime and not get through the inventory at Dogwise. However, we do have a short list of recommendations for ADT people, Rescue people, Dog people. These, and others, are available from Dogwise, and, often, other sources.

For general reading about canine behavior:
" CULTURE CLASH " by Jean Donaldson (our #1 pick for most helpful book!)
" DOG'S MIND " by Bruce Fogle, DVM (fascinating reading)
" ON TALKING TERMS WITH DOGS: CALMING SIGNALS 2ND. ED. " by Turid Rugaas (there are also great videos)

About Rescue Dogs:
" NOBODY'S BEST FRIEND ", by Lorraine Houston
" SECOND HAND DOG ", by Carol Lea Benjamin (her dominance-based training methods are considered outmoded by many now, but worth a look)

For assistance preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, anything by Gary Wilkes or Nicholas Dodman or Ian Dunbar, as well as the following:
" DOG WHO LOVED TOO MUCH ", by Nicholas Dodman (separation anxiety)
" I'LL BE HOME SOON! ", by Patricia McConnell (separation anxiety)
" CAUTIOUS CANINE, 2ND EDITION ", by Patricia McConnell (fearful, shy dogs)
" DOGS BEHAVING BADLY ", by Nicholas Dodman

For assistance with behavioral modification in desensitizing sound-sensitive dogs, there are a series of CD's by Ryan, from Dogwise, for children; dogs; fireworks; gunshots; thunderstorms; kitchen and vacuum; and a complete set.

For reading about positive, reward-based training methods, such as Clicker Training:, good starting points, in the order we suggest you read them, are:
" DON'T SHOOT THE DOG ", by Karen Pryor
" EXCEL-ERATED LEARNING ", by Pam Reid
" CLICKER TRAINING FOR OBEDIENCE ", by Morgan Spector
(as well as anything by Gary Wilkes)
There are also many websites set up by clicker trainers. Many of these have excellent "free" information and articles, as well as sources for materials, supplies and equipment. For example, Corally Burmaster, an ADT breeder and Clicker Trainer from Virginia, has an excellent article on teaching loose lead walking on her website (see below).


TRAINING:
On the subject of training, we do encourage you to enroll in an obedience class with your ADT. This provides an important opportunity for canine socialization, a chance to strengthen your bond with your ADT, and a great chance for some real fun and relaxation. We strongly encourage you to seek out trainers who employ positive, reward-based methods, rather than harsh, physical corrections and choke collars. ADT's are a smart and stubborn breed, and they do not respond well to the latter techniques. Consistency and firmness, where needed, yes; but, punishment and discomfort, no. A brief websurf for "clicker trainers" will probably turn up many sites, some of which have geographic directories of clicker trainers, to facilitate your search.

But, for starters, here are a few sites from some of the better-known folks:
Gary Wilkes: www.clickandtreat.com
Karen Pryor: www.clickertraining.com/
Corally Burmaster: www.clickertrain.com
Baileys: www.hsnp.com/behavior/
Gail Fisher: www.alldogsgym.com/
Jean Donaldson: www.lasardogs.com

There are also some commercial sites that sell clicker training supplies & equipment, e.g.:
www.sitstay.com as well as Dogwise.com (1-800-776-2665)

As an alternative to choke and prong collars for our often rambunctious and headstrong ADT's, we highly recommend the use of a Gentle Leader head collar, by Premier Pet Products (Not the Halti or other similar products; many an ADT has slipped a Halti; they simply do not work as well). TMALSS, this collar is a training device analogous to a horse's bridle. It works with rather than contrary, to a dog's natural instincts to help him achieve some measure of self-control, WITHOUT putting painful pressure on the windpipe or other soft tissues, and without choking or gagging. The folks at Premier explain it far better than we can on their website:

http://www.gentleleader.com

or by calling the company for information (1-800-933-5595; ask for customer service, and have them mail you some information, if you are not on the Web). We have used these with great success on many of our Rescues, including big, strong males who had never walked on a leash before, and the results are truly amazing. We believe that it is a much more humane training tool than a choke or prong collar. We urge you to take a look at the website and consider trying a Gentle Leader for your ADT (No, we do not receive kickbacks; but we do believe in the product! And some of us think the cartoon dog on the homepage bears a striking resemblance to an ADT!).

Crate training: enclosed is a copy of a helpful little pamphlet. There is also an excellent article at the following:

http://www.doggiedoor.com/crate.shtml

and in the August 2000 issue of "Whole Dog Journal" (see below).

Most ADT's under 55 lb or so will be comfortable in a Vari Kennel 500 (or "extra large", or the equivalent). Larger and taller dogs, esp the big boys, will be cramped in anything less than a Vari Kennel 700, or the equivalent. The dog is far more likely to adjust to crating without complaint or anxiety if the crate is amply sized, with room to stand and turn around. Cramped crates make even the most easy-going dogs stressed and anxious and uncomfortable. The choice of wire vs. plastic is largely one of preference. Many (perhaps most) dogs seem to prefer the seclusion of the plastic crates, which are also lighter, quieter (esp if you plan to keep it in your bedroom), easier to clean and cheaper. Some dogs prefer the openness of the wire crates, but be sure to buy one that can be easily collapsed without annoying "drop pins", has a removable pan, and has a very secure door latch mechanism (many an ADT has learned to open crate doors!). Don't invest in expensive crate mattresses -- many dogs prefer to rumple up their bedding anyway, and whatever you choose may be peed on, or worse. JB Wholesale carries an excellent selection of well-priced crate pads, blankets and the like. Many dogs here in Texas seem not to prefer the fleece-type fabrics, especially in summer, so consider a washable nylon pad topped with an inexpensive bath mat. It is nice to have a spare, so that one can be washed, if need be.

To keep your neighbors happy, there is a great product available from JB Wholesale Pets & Carealot, called "Dogipot" bags; a roll of 200 brown plastic bags is $8-9. These are very inexpensive, convenient, biodegradable and discrete (a nice shade of opaque brown). It's easy to keep a few tucked into your pocket, your fanny pack, your glove compartment, etc. Some of us "never leave home without them"!

For indoor accidents of all sorts, there are a number of new "enzymatic"-type odor removers that are far more effective than older cleaning products. The best of these are "Simple Solution" and "Nature's Miracle", both of which are widely available at Petsmart and Petco, etc. and are inexpensive; there are a number of others, as well. These help to remove the stain AND to remove the lingering odor (not just for your nose, but also for the dog's nose), and so, discourage repeat accidents/offenses in the same spot.

OTHER, MISCELLANEOUS RESOURCES:
Airedale Terrier Club of America: www.airedale.org
Airedale Internet discussion group: www.airedales.org (best all around resource)
Lonestar Airedale Terrier Club: www.lsatc.com/ /
Airedale Rescue Fundraising Projects, with links to many informative articles on a wide range of topics (health, behavior, training, etc): http://www.airedaleterriers.org

Here are two excellent periodicals for the dog owner. Though each has a slightly different "slant", they are both well-researched, well-written, non-commercial, and objective. The informative monthly articles cover all aspects of dog ownership, from health and nutrition, to training and behavior, product reviews, and resources.
"Your Dog" from the Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine -
www.tufts.edu/vet/publications/yourdog/index.html
        PO Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142; 1-800-829-5116.
"Whole Dog Journal" --
        PO Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142; 1-800-829-9165 or
         www.whole-dog-journal.com